The T-35 seems to grab the inset of the bolt, but when trying to rotate it, no dice and the bit comes out of the hole/ slips (and this is using strong pressure directly over the bolt and using a breaker bar as a regular ratchet handle (3/8” drive) simply didn’t apply enough torque. Any ideas to free up the bolts without drilling them out or other brutal tactics. I’ll either return it to RetroModern and lose 20% restocking fee or maybe try to sell it here. I’m not sure if I can get this installed. I don’t want to further bugger up the bolt and I just cannot get it to release (I read a thread from 2005 in which another owner had the same issue and basically pounded a T-40 Torx bit in and then got the bolts to release, but no such luck with this. When I wanted to remove the bolts of the striker (which are actually T-35 Torx button head bolts), not matter what I do and having obtained the proper bit from Harbor Freight (as no one else sells it), I cannot get the bolt to budge at all. Anyway, today, I tightened up my front hard top latches (the procedure where you cut the long nut of the latch by ~ 5 mm) and this seems to have worked well. Then you get to route the window defroster wire through the soft top sleeve and stuff but that's way too hard to explain without pics.Yes, I would assume our tops are not high theft items (as are Miata tops in some cities), but I purchased a RetroModern polished HT lock (you remove the 2 large Torx bolts from the striker and install the billet retainer and then slide the latch lock over the retainer, then it’s locked in place with a special key).Wind no longer causes the car alarm to go off (you can keep the motion sensor engaged). 1' more headroom compared to soft top up. Ive never seen a car with more visibility. Run the seatbelt through the new plastic trim, install the reused plastic plugs into the trim and snap it into place. OEM hardtop has a huge piece of glass, offering no blind spots.Mine came with 2 sets of bolts for the bottom hole, it didn't seem to matter which I used but I thought that was weird. Install the mounting posts using the supplied bolts.The HT should have come with 2 new trim parts with sections of them cut out to accommodate the hard top mounting posts. Remove the left and right plastic trim parts that the seat belt passes through (unbolt the seatbelt base).Replace them with the stainless latch parts.Remove the rear tabs near the engine hinge that are body colored painted on the Left and Right side.Maintenance, and Troubleshooting MR2 Spyder Main Forum Appearance Modifications Parts and Miscellaneous for Sale. but if no one posts up I can send you a scan of the install info via PM on Sunday. Jump to Latest Follow 21 - 40 of 40 Posts. Yesterday after cleaning my car a little, I noticed a difference between the left and right sides where the hardtop meets the body of the car, next to the doors. I went outside to look at my Spyder and I too did not have them. It was a few years ago so I don't remember the actual instructions. I never knew I was missing the hardtop 'triangles' until MikeV brought it up. Those things above aren't in any instructions but two things I noticed I messed up on the first hard top install. Did it come with all mounting hardware and modified plastic trim pieces?Ģ things on that - when you pull the seatbelts through the old trim pieces, be careful not to pop the retaining rivet off of the seatbelt when you pull it through the plastic trim that is being replaced.Īlso, when installing the new plastic trim using the plastic rivet(s) that holds it in place, do not push too hard otherwise you will 'crease' the trim and create a white mark from pushing to hard (like when you fold a credit card in half, you get that white stress line from bending plastic).
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